Many RVs and camper trailers use a power converter to operate the lights, refrigerator, vent fans, and perhaps the thermostat on the heating system. The converter uses the 110-volt AC power from the local power source and transforms it into the 12-volt DC these items require. This article is intended to help you troubleshoot many converter problems and to repair or replace the unit if need be. Since there are different makes, types, and sizes of converters, this article will deal with problems common to most models. Although electrical knowledge is helpful, it is not necessary in order to be able to check the power converter or to repair or replace it. For more basic information on how the electrical system on your RV works, see.
In most cases, a malfunctioning converter will just cease to function with the result being the total loss of power to any 12-volt DC fixtures or controls. In other cases, the converter will produce power, but not enough to run the 12-volt DC electrical system.
Virtually every RV comes equipped with a converter. Not to be confused with the “RV inverter”, the RV converter as the name implies, converts 120 VAC electricity into 12 VDC(think 12V cigarette lighter receptacle). It charges your batteries and powers your lights, water pump,. A converter charger in a recreational vehicle (RV) is powered by 120-volt alternating current when the RV is hooked-up to shore power, or when a properly connected generator is running.
But until the onboard 12-volt batteries are exhausted of their charge, the problems will not become apparent. The power converter is supposed to maintain a constant charge on these batteries, supplying variable voltage depending on the amount being drawn from the 12-volt DC system. Remember that the onboard batteries must be in good shape and able to hold a full charge.
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One bad battery will draw power from the other good batteries and will eventually cause them to fail also. To check the batteries, it is necessary to fully charge them and then disconnect them from the others to check their recharging abilities. Check them with a multimeter, after they sit awhile, to determine if one or more is losing voltage. The first step in determining the problem is to start from the beginning—that is, the point where the 110-volt AC supply enters the RV power converter. With the RV power supply connected, check the voltage at the point it enters the converter.
It should be between 108 to 130 volts. Anything in this range is okay!. The next order of business is to check the voltage where it connects to the 12 volt DC breaker box. It should be 11-13 volts to operate satisfactorily. Anything less indicates a bad power converter. Once we know the problem is a malfunctioning RV power converter, we can check the inner components of the unit. RV power converters use a small fan to keep the electrical components cool while the unit is charging.
It should be possible to hear the cooling fan running intermittently while the converter is in use (the fan may operate only when the temperature reaches a certain point). This fan normally uses the 110-volt AC line voltage to operate. If the voltage to the fan is in the correct range, the fan itself is probably malfunctioning. Replacing this fan is normally an easy project, but finding the right fan might be a problem. Note the make, part numbers, voltage, and any other information on the RV power converter fan motor, for use in obtaining a replacement online.
In some cases, a different make and model may be substituted as long as the voltage and amperage are similar and the motor fits in the space. If the voltage is not getting to the cooling fan from the thermostat, a replacement thermostat is needed. These can be found online as well.
A thermal sensor is used to switch the cooling fan on and off, depending on the operating temperature of the converter components. Make sure the current is getting past this sensor and to the cooling fan before buying a new fan. If the fan itself, as opposed to the sensor, is not malfunctioning, you should be able to jump the sensor and cause the fan to operate.
If this is the case, replace the sensor with one of equal temperature rating. Some power converters rely on a resistor to control the voltage to the onboard batteries and the 12-volt DC system. In some models, the resistor is riveted to the converter box. When checked with the multimeter, the resistor should read from 3 to 13 volts, depending on the present charge of the battery, and which onboard 12-volt lights, fans, and other accessories are being used. If your batteries are not being fully charged, the resistor is often the culprit.
It may be necessary to disassemble the converter box to access this resistor. Be careful if the circuit board requires removal, or you may damage it. Drill out the rivet and replace with the correct replacement resistor. If the exact replacement part is difficult to locate, you may find a satisfactory replacement at an auto supply store because this type of resistor is used in many automotive applications. As long as the values are the same, almost any 12-volt DC resistor should work. Once this resistor is replaced, the onboard batteries should stay charged with the proper amount of voltage.
Sometimes it’s just better to bite the bullet and buy a new converter, especially if you aren’t the DIY type of person or just don’t have the time to chase down parts. But actually, it isn’t all that costly to install a new power converter.
Installation is very easy too. Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power converters are fan-cooled and deliver clean, dependable 12-volt DC power to the lights and other appliances in your motorhome or camping trailer. Choose from 45-, 60-, and 80-amp models to fit your particular RV power requirements.
If you’re thinking of replacing the 12-volt DC breaker panel, or updating an older motorhome or travel trailer, the Parallax 7345 Power Center combines the power converter with a reliable breaker system for dependable, clean 12-volt DC power to supply your RV. (For more on breaker systems in RVs, see ). Parallax also provides 45- and 55- amp converters and breaker panels separately. A good 12-volt converter system can make or break a camping trip. Learning to repair and understand how the system works will eventually pay off on one of these occasions. Hi Randy, my husband and I own a Casita. We were plugged into shore power at the house, and suddenly noticed a loud vibrating noise coming from near the battery and the power converter.
We unplugged the power, opened up the battery box and saw that the wire from the negative terminal had come disconnected. We unhooked the battery altogether and the vibration stopped. We thought the battery might be the cause of the problem, so we plugged it into shore power without the battery to see if it still made the vibrating noise, and it did. We’re guessing it’s the power converter.
Any thoughts? Randy, issue solved I believe. There breaker in that junction box was the issue. After talking to my local RV shop they showed me that there were two types one with a manual reset and one that you replace if broken. Turns out mine is the manual reset type as I saw there was the tinniest tip of a toothpick size button that when I pushed clicked in and stayed and sure enough now everything is working. The majority of the wires floating around in there were the lines coming in from the RV to Car plug and their connections to the trailer lines. The main wires coming in from the top were from the converter and the wires coming in from the lower right were from the battery side.
Thanks for the assistance, relieved it wasn't more major. Ok, I think I've narrowed it down to the junction box area. The converter is sending 13.7 there on the top positive connections, but the bottom positive connections are not getting any power to the post. Only if I connect the battery up do I get a reading which is 12.7 from the battery to that post.
If I remove the connections to the battery and test the lines to the battery they do not have any current, so I was incorrect and the battery is not charging. Am I missing something on these junction boxes? Could it just go bad and not be sending power to the second bottom post? I'll have to check tmw, but I don't recall seeing any fuse.
I just see the power line from the battery going into that junction box where all those connections are. From there I basically cannot see the power line after.
To the left of the junction box are 4 black wires that look to be grounded to the frame as well, they are not very large gauge wires though and are in pairs in red rubber protectors. Looking at the inverter, I can see a red power line coming in and attached to the circuit board. I'm not sure if this is where I should check for 12 power coming from the battery? The inverter does seem to be charging the battery though. Randy, I've read through the article and the comments and I'm trying to trouble shoot an issue. The coach only has power when connected to shore power. The inverter seems to be charging the battery, but just not using it when I need it with no connection.
I see no blown fuses and have switched back and forth all of the circuit breakers. From the comments I read here, I removed the thick white ground wire going from the battery to the frame and took a dremel and really cleaned well the connectors on all ends as well as where the wire is screwed to the frame but no change. The inverter is a WFCO WF-8955PEC and seems to be common. How do I test that 12v power is getting to the inverter? I see the end of a thick red cable posted to the circuit board, but not sure if that is for 12v or the shore power line? There is also some type of junction box, but I see no issues looking in it, but not sure really about it. We had a new converter put in our RV after the original one failed.
About the same time, we purchased 2 brand new Yamaha generators. For the next seven months, from the get go, we had trouble with the generators. Surging when just running the converter and the refrigerator, overloading easily, etc even when using them both in tandem! During this time, we had the generators checked out by 4 different shops, never found a problem with the generators.
(Unfortunately, we never had them tested when plugged into the RV). We never seemed to have an issue when running directly off AC, plugged in. Then, one day we plugged the shore cord into a 30 amp pedestal at a campground using our Surge Guard surge protector. The Surge Guard went through its countdown test of the pedestal with on faults. As soon as it allowed power to go to the RV, the converter fried! The tops of the capacitors in the converter blew off and small low volt items in the RV that were not even turned on (battery charger, mattress warmer) took a hit and fried. There was no fault recorded on the surge protector.
After we replaced the converter again, the generators ran beautifully. I would love to hear your opinions on what you feel our issue was. My gut feeling is that the converter was faulty, but since I don't completely understand their operation, don't know if that could be the case if it operated correctly when plugged in to AC receptacle but not when plugged into the generators. Hello, I have read the article about the converter and I think I understand, but let me give you my senerio, I was at the camp ground and all was great for four days and then out of no where I noticed my AC was not cooling, blowing but not cooling.
I then check breakers flipped them, turned off AC and turned it back on and it worked good again, then the next day AC running great until I turned on ONE over head light and all shut down, AC Shuts down but light are really dim. I turn light off and turn AC back on good, until I turn on the light again. I thought it was the camp ground shore line, packed up when home plugged in my home light still same problem, but now I find my brand new 12 Volt battery is dead. Do you think it is a the converter?
I have a parallax 7100 Sysem in my camper.Any recommendations? It appears it was the converter.
One capacitor completely broken from the board. The other capacitor was not in complete contact as the solder had been cracked from vibration. No capacitors to smooth the current caused arcing across the 5 resistors that set voltage. The board around these resistors was burned and showed visible arc trails, on the underside of the board. The top of the board was discolored light brown. The capacitors, each the size of a D sized battery. Standing vertically.
Had nothing to reduce vibration. So the “legs” broke off in one case, or broke the solder joint in the other.
If you have a Parallax 7345 converter. I would check to see if you have broken or loose capacitors. If the resistors have not been fried yet, you can solder the capacitors back in place. Then apply some silicone, around the base of each, capacitor to stop vibration damage. In our case we chose to replace the converter.
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The old 7345 converter could be repaired. Wouldn’t be pretty, but it would work and be safe.
Still waiting on word from Sooner about a schematic. Still have not been able to trace out the ground.
As you say it has to be there someplace. Update: Performed a charge on the battery with a battery charger. Battery showed 12.61V, straight off charger.
After two days of charging from the converter the battery showed 12.66V, after about 40 minutes unplugged. It looks like it all might be fine now. Trying to get a wiring diagram from the manufacturer to find that ground.
I suspect it might be in the control box for the powered foot. An 8 gauge ground goes in there, as does an 8 gauge power.
Again, thanks. Hi Randy -Thank you for your article as we have been having the same issue as many, on our brand new 2018 Forest River Cherokee Grey Wolf (patriot edition) toy hauler. I would like to share our finding with you and everyone else. Recap - With generator plugged in EVERYTHING works, switch the generator off, brand new fully charged batteries, nothing works, Checked everything you mentioned (my husband has an electrician background) and spoke to our dealer. Dealer told us if we don't see a big red button inside the front door, then we don't have a power re-set switch. They are WRONG! There is a switch, but dang, it was hard to find AND covered in dirt!
My husband persisted and followed the battery wires back to the frame of the Toyhauler and next to the silver electrical box, (button was NOT in the box), there are wires that connect next to the box, 4 yellow capped ones and above the screws that hold that contraption to the frame is a tiny black button, (I mean tiny, like the size of a ballpoint pen tip). Ours was covered in dirt, so my husband it the first 20 times he was under the trailer. He pushed it and it reset the power!! I have photos I would love to send you so you can post. Been having these problems on a 2003 Sooner living quarters horse trailer. Looked at the converter. It was a Parallax 7345 cabinet, and one capacitor was laying on it's side and the other sparked when I touched it.
Both has been broken or loosened by vibration. The resistor bridge was also burned, probably from the capacitors damage. Battery was only charging to 12.2V max So we replaced the converter yesterday with a 45RU unit. The battery is still not showing a full charge after an overnight charge. Cleaned the battery connections at the battery today.
From reading here I guess the next step is the ground to the frame. The battery was replaced new in March. Wondering if it has been damaged by undercharging. I have a 2016 Forest river travail Trailer and we have lost power to the refrigerator, the Stove vent van, and now the furnace will not light. The refrigerator will not turn on at all when plunged in or off the batteries.
I changed the LP regulator this weekend to see if that would get the furnaces to run because we could not get Gas to stove to stay lit and thought it might be why the Furnace was not working. After changing the regulator the stove works fine but not the furnace.
Just seems odd all of this happened all at once on and all the components are in the same area of the coach. BTW this weekend we where hooked to 220 power. I have checked the Ground, All fuses I could find (behind fridge, Converter panel, Under fridge next to furnace with no blown fuses of breaker. The GFI in the restroom works fine and so does microwave.
Hi Randy, I did originally have the battery connected and it was doing the same thing. So I disconnected it as I was worried that the battery was not holding a charge and causing it to run constantly. I also have now noticed if I run the lights for a longer period of time, the squealing eventually stops but the fan turns on, pulses and then turns off. Over and over as long as the lights are on! It doesn’t seem to run constantly. It’s very strange. I’m not sure why it’s suddenly doing this.
The fan has never run in the past when I had my lights on, and I have never heard the squealing before until this camp site! Hi Randy, I have a WF-8735 converter in my trailer. I am plugged in at a campsite, and the converter is emitting a constant high pitched squealing sound. It gets louder when I turn on the lights, but is constant even when I have nothing running except the fridge. When I turn on the lights or draw any additional power, the squealing gets louder and the fan kicks on.
The fan does not run unless I am drawing additional power. I have noticed that through the day, the converter gets hot, as the fan isn’t running so I have been positioning a small fan in front of it to keep it cool.
It has not done this before at any other camp site. I disconnected my battery as I don’t need it. My connection cord says “this connection is for 110/125 volt AC, 60 Hz. 30 ampere supply” and the tower I’m plugged into says “volts 120/240, amps 15/30, HZ 60.” Do you have any advice on what could be wrong, or how to make the squealing stop? I have a 2014 Lakota horse trailer with living quarters.
Everything functions perfectly when hooked to normal power or a generator. Trying to run it on just batteries, nothing works. We just replaced the batteries because we thought the batteries weren't charging. That did not fix the problem. We then thought the power switch had gone bad because it was a little worn. That still did not fix the problem.
Breakers and fuses appear to be good. Does this sound like my inverter is bad? How can I test this? For more information on managing or withdrawing consents and how we handle data, visit our Privacy Policy at: Show Details Necessary HubPages Device ID This is used to identify particular browsers or devices when the access the service, and is used for security reasons.
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